Beaks and Bills
by Joe Meche
Through an interesting set of circumstances, I found myself with the challenge of finding something to do … on my own. Cindy took on the task of spending a week and a half with grandkids while their parents were on a road trip so I was left to my own devices, of which I have a bagful! This particular pursuit of adventure was close to home and coincided with the new moon and the potential for a bit of astrophotography by night and birding during the day. With these guidelines in mind there was one place that fit the bill perfectly … Artist Point.
photo: Joe Meche
White-tailed ptarmigan beginning to shed its summer plumage in early August.
After a 57-mile drive to the end of State Route 542, you enter the large parking lot in one of Washington’s most accessible and scenic venues. Situated at 5,100 feet above sea level, Artist Point offers simply incredible views of two of our alpine icons … Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan. I have reached this spectacular viewpoint more times than I can count in almost five decades in Bellingham, by driving, hiking, and even snowshoeing in winter. From past visits, I know the lay of the land well enough to be comfortable and make sure that I was in the right place at the right time.
While you don’t have to leave your vehicle to take it all in, this is a place that beckons that you do so. An additional bonus of the immediate area around the main parking lot is that this superb viewpoint offers wheelchair access as well, if necessary. During the first part of August, you can certainly expect crowded conditions since Artist Point is a very desirable and well-known destination for day trips, as well as a jumping-off spot for numerous overnight hikes into and around the Mt. Baker Wilderness Area.
My plan for night photography lined up perfectly with the new moon, meaning there would be no moonlight to interfere with the dark skies. From my calculations prior to my getaway, an added perk was the fact that the Milky Way would be directly overhead. The toughest part of all was waiting for essential darkness during the warmer and more crowded daytime hours. But, despite the expected mosquitoes and other annoying nonhuman pests, I found time for short junkets on the Ptarmigan Ridge and Bagley Lakes Trails, as well as the uplands above the parking area.
As evening approached, the parking lot that was once filled to overflowing with people and their vehicles began to empty accordingly. This winding mountain road is best negotiated during daylight hours, so the downhill exodus began before setting sun. By the time it was suitably dark, my vehicle was one of only a dozen others still at the top. The first twinkling of stars was my signal to begin my evening routine for two nights, both ending closer to midnight and beyond. This is the time when your preparation comes into play, as far as your basic setup for the dark. A headlamp works perfectly for any light you might need to change camera settings, find your way back to your vehicle, etc.
It had been years since I last dabbled in dark sky photography, and I was anxious to get back into the night in this perfect location. It was interesting to see what all I remembered from shooting star trails at Cascade Pass more than three decades ago. It’s safe to say that birds have been my priority in the interim and staying up late at night has become less attractive than going to bed early. This year, however, I did it twice to capture the Northern Lights in Tokeland in May and this latest venture into the North Cascades for the Milky Way. I might have to reconsider my personal schedule to include more nights out!
Essential ingredients for photographing the night sky include a decent camera with a manual mode setting, a stable tripod, and either a remote or cable shutter release. Since you’ll be shooting at maximum aperture and slow shutter speeds, you’ll need to keep your hands off the camera … that’s why you need a separate shutter release. They also come in handy when you stake out nesting birds and spend an inordinate amount of time just waiting for the best shot, but I digress. When it comes to dark sky photography, you can Google any number of sites that offer basic tips for success. And, as it is with so many other pursuits, practice is essential for the best results. I did capture a series of good shots, but I could tell that I need to fine tune my routine … and practice!
After late nights and dark sky photo sessions, it was easy to fill the daylight hours in search of birds; although, our feathered friends were few and far between. Common ravens and dark-eyed juncos were in evidence at the point, but others required a bit more effort. The ongoing snowmelt from the area around Table Mountain always provides enough of a stream below to attract American dippers along the Bagley Lakes Trail, which is downhill from Artist Point. Typical higher elevation species encountered on the trail on the three days were hermit thrushes, Canada jays, and American pipits. White-tailed ptarmigan were already beginning to shed their summer plumage in favor of their eventual look of their snow-white colors … typical ptarmigan seasonal camouflage.
Given the time of year, I didn’t expect to see many birds at all, but the few-and-far-between that I did see seemed to be adequate, given the main reason for being there. If you choose one spot as your base, you can venture a bit farther down the road back to the area around Picture Lake in Heather Meadows at the base of the Mount Baker Ski Area. In the past, I’ve observed nesting spotted sandpipers and red-breasted sapsuckers on the trail around the lake, along with male sooty grouse trying to attract mates in their own inimitable way.
If you have the time and are in the mood, as I happened to be on this short respite, consider staying overnight in a place like Artist Point. Anyplace with a modicum of quiet will do, but the beauty is to experience the 24-hour changing of light in nature, from sunrise to sunset and beyond. I know that I’m capable of functioning well in crowds when the occasion calls for it, but it’s the time alone and away when I find the most meditative benefit for me. Birds and music are but two examples that have proven to be good fits in that respect. Given the temperature of the world these days, it seems I need more time than usual to maintain emotional equilibrium. And of course, we’re all different ,so seek and visit literal or figurative places that work for you. Maybe I’ll see you there.
Joe Meche is a past president of the North Cascades Audubon Society and was a member of the board of directors for 20 years. He has been watching birds for more than 60 years and photographing birds and landscapes for more than 40 years. He has written over 200 columns for Whatcom Watch.
